Thursday, September 16, 2010

Bilbao and the Spanish...


Guggenheim at river level
Gugginheim (Next to red bridge pier)
Because you have all heard of the Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, designed by Frank Gehry (he was Canadian, you know; so we Americans really can't claim him!), I think it might be fun to make some other comments.






 First, on the museum, it is everything you've heard it is:  it is bigger than life, the exhibits are just my kind of art (VERY contemporary - you'll see Bos's pictures that he took furtively, when told NO PHOTOS INSIDE THE MUSEUM).  The only surprising thing is that it is not out there alone on some plain or mountain, as all the pictures we'd seen seemed to indicate.  But it is rather tucked into a city on a river and, from afar, it looks less than impressive (Comments as we look down on the city of Bilbao and the museum: "WHERE did you say it was?  Is that it?? I can't see it!" "It's THERE, THERE" Bos pointing madly!)  But, once you get into the city and used to the fact that its beauty is not because it is BIG, but rather it is unique, you forget the rest! And you will see lots of installation art, similar to MOMA or the Whitney in NYC.
Giant paintball gun randomly firing!

Fine Apartment Center city
Note elevator above building
Goes to streets behind and much
above this.  There are several!
Now on to the rest.  First, Bilbao may be officially in Spain.  BUT it is really in the heart of the Basque country.  The Basques have been a troublesome lot for both the French and the Spaniards from the beginning.  You see, their "country" is really mountainous.  And they truly have always wanted to be a separate country, belonging to noone but themselves.  This is sorta like those pesky French in Quebec, who periodically long to be a separate country!  Despite the fact that  they were such troublemakers, both France and Spain have tried to claim them down through history and now it is Spain's turn to tussle with them. They have their own ethnic costumes, their own language in addition to Spanish, and even use the majority of their tax money for local Basque projects. Their city has revived itself with unique architecture and a very modern waterfront, parks, etc   But, officially, they are Spanish.  And, for our purposes, I'm going to talk a bit abut the differences we see between the French and Spanish.  (My college roommate and friend, Kay Jarvis-Sladky, who was smart enough in the 60's to major in Spanish and teaching, will correct me I know!)

And I'm doing this on the pool deck of the ship, parked in the harbor of La Coruna, Portugal. Enough already, Bos and I said.  We are tired --- both our soles and our souls need a break today!  So we are going to see Portugal tomorrow and Saturday -- and we are chillin' out today!  

French.  The French people have something my mother kept saying: "Je ne sais quoi!" which means "I just don't know what".  And it is true.  It is hard to define.  Words that might describe the French people we have met are: a bit aloof (not horribly, but it is there, for sure!), casual but formal or, Bos says, "Casually superior or smug".  It is hard to imagine the French people sitting around playing a drinking game, or laughing boisterously.

On the other hand, from the minute you see them, the Spanish people are smiling, friendly, casual without that smugness -- and it is hard NOT to think of them sitting around playing drinking games or laughing all night!  While the French are typically blonde with fine features and petite, the Spanish are darkly mysterious-looking, with smiles playing at the edges of their mouths even when they are walking somewhere.  That "they are going to break they are so petite" feeling you have in France is totally gone in Spain, although the people are not corpulent by any means.  They just seem to be sturdier.   Which place would I like to explore more??  Of course, it is that mystery that appears to be Spain.  Good thing we still have Valencia and Barcelona to visit on this trip!!

And dinner last night?  We had dinner with an older couple and their doctor unmarried son, who takes them on a couple cruises a year.  And the chief engineer for the ship.  Who happens to be SWEDISH!  And he hates lutefisk.  These crew people, for the most part are married.  The staff who wait on us are either from the Philippines or India.  And they are gone from home for 7 to 9 months, get 2 months off, and then back on the boat for another 7 to 9 months.  Makes our lives seem much more stable.  But they say the pay helps their families at home and they are saving up for "the future".  All in all, an interesting trip.

7 comments:

  1. Woo-hoo! A mention in Kathy n Bos' blog. I will take a bow. First, this is something to just get me going. Nice take on everything though. Good job and great photos!!! BTW, Bob and I took a 5 hour trip ride from Madrid to Bilbao in Jan. just because Bob hadn't yet seen the Guggenheim there. I had seen it shortly after its opening. In 2010 exhibit was on Frank Lloyd Wright! Go to Bilbao to to learn about a WI boy.

    A few tidbits to your excellent overview. I'd give you an A for that...to be an A+ you've got to show some Spanish finesse.☺ Still a crusader even though one no longer needs to be...the message is pretty clear to all.
    OK, back on topic. Did you know that Frank Gehry started out life as Frank Owen Goldman, son of Polish Jews. I saw a PBS special on his life, and it declared he changed his name due to Antisemitism within the architectural/
    construction community. In the Wikipedia his first wife gets credit for this, but who knows? OK. That's not part of my Spanish training.

    You got the Spanish right. They are fun!!! Daughter Claire married Erik who father is 100% MN Norwegian (They still eat lutefish which is no longer frequently eaten in Norway...BTW...It was US immigrant's fare) But before Claire and Erik's babes were born they did a "honeymoon" to Amsterdam (What's not to like?) the French relatives of Erik's mom, a Chaurand at birth in the French Alps, and my friends in Oviedo, Asturias, about 2 hours west of Bilbao. Erik confessed to me..that he was completely relaxed... after the French relatives.. once they got to Spain. I think from your assessment above, you get that remark.

    About the French and their attitude...in 2004 Claire and I went into a mustard shop in Paris. Incidentally, the brand Maille? she could buy in Cleveland when she returned.☺ Anyway, some American college girls (guessing here) came into the shop which stores all the various varieties in drawers. It was sort of like Victoria's Secret...but mustard not bras. Well, these girl/young woman attacked the drawers looking for their choice. The 20-something sales woman was beside herself with such barbaric behavior...but she remained French...poised and furious at the same time. In addition, these girls didn't greet on entering (Bonjour) nor leaving (Merci)..but they did buy a few bottles. Claire and I were so embarrassed...by the Americans that we found a couple of Spaniard in this small shop and started to speaking to them as to not to be ID'd with the wild ones...but it was too funny. The Americans were over the top, but this story displays the French "Je ne sais quoi!" you are referencing. Both the French salesperson and the customers were about the same age but what a difference!

    Must stop...I will email you my project for the day, which I don't think your blog readers care about. Keep having a great time...and bring on the blog!!!

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  4. It's the Westie awesome? Were the flowers pansies? That's what they were in January...Pansies are a cool
    weather plan.

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  5. P.S. Reasons for comments removed. First, I posted what is there now, but the blog said it was too much so I copied half in a comment, other half in another...and what happened? They posted what they said was too long.
    Go figure!!!

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  6. Glad you enjoyed Spain.

    And I can't imagine anyone NOT hating lutefisk.

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  7. We saw the Guggenheim in 1998 when it first opened. I remember being so impressed by the flower dog outside the building and by the building itself. We were on a Crystal Cruise that got diverted to Bilbao because of a harbor strike in Lisbon. Was a great unexpected experience-even though modern art isn't our thing we found the exhibits really interesting and expressive. Was the first time I remember men with guns guarding the port area and I guess that was the Basque struggle/conflict.

    At the time the guide told us the officials from Bilbao had a plan to lift the city up in the international scene. They went to the Guggenheim officials and lobbied for the museum. It was apparently a rather unremarkable city until then. BUT they sure helped a transformation happen.

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