Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Wandering the Loire...

Chateau de Amboise
THE Chocolate shop!

We drove up to Chenanceau...and we drove away.  Crowds.  Busses. Too many people.  Even on a rainy day.  So we decided to change direction.  Here, every small village has a castle and a church.  And most of them are on the banks of one river or other.  So we thought it might be fun to find some of these villages and "discover".  First stop, not such a small town:  Amboise.  Well, Amboise is small compared to U.S. standards, but nearly everything except Lyon and Paris is small here.  And in Amboise, besides its trusty castle, its ancient church and Leonardo da Vinci's home, they have a chocolate shop to die for.  Betsy, who was here 10 years ago, waxes eloquent about the hot chocolate she drank there.  So, of course, we had to stop and get the chocolate plus formula for our kid!  And additional presents for Brent, Kathy, and her two kids.  And we had to wander enough to have a French "poor boy", which is really a small baguette with cheese and ham, along with a Coca Lite.


But then we crossed the river and saw-- it looked like a set of a movie being shot.  You know.  The old ones where they painted the scene on a big sheet or something and filmed in front of it.  Only this was a really truly picturesque little village -- with fishing boats near the ancient stone bridge and an old castle along with old houses and stone streets and...  Am I going on and on?  Sorry.



So, we thought, how much would an "opportunity property"cost in such a cute area.  Suffice it to say: TOO MUCH!  How about $350,000 for a tumbledown.  And the entire area except for already built on hills that hold castles, is flood plain.  In the U.S. that would be a no-no.  But apparently, you live with it if you want to live in a movie set on a river in France!   Maybe you could pay for the property by renting it out for those future movies!?!

A personal perspective on the French healthcare system...

Healthcare.  It is on everyone's tongues in the U.S.  And whenever we see polls on world heathcare, the French pop up at or near the top.  Best healthcare in the world.  Longest lifespans. Fewer infant deaths. All that kind of good stuff.  But I got to experience French healthcare personally yesterday.  Now, there are a few caveats:  first, we were located in a small town in the Loire valley named Onzain (fun to say in French-- halfway between a cough and a sneeze!).  But I ended up with a fever of 101.5 that wouldn't go away and I was freezing to death. Also, had diarrhea and nausea.  So, we called the concierge of our small hotel and she told us we had an "appointment" at 3 p.m. with the female doctor in town.  "She may be a little late," the concierge told us.  But this is France, we chuckled to ourselves.  Of course, she will be late.

So, promptly at 3 p.m. we turned on trusty Jill GPS and followed her to a small stucco house on a side street in Onzain (cough sneeze).  Cars were parked all over higgeldy piggeldy.  We found a place to park and walked in and said, "The nom est Irvine and we have an appointment with the doctor."  The receptionist said, "There are no appointments. This is for consulation."  In other words, get your name on the list and wait...and wait...and wait...and wait.  For three hours.  There was no place to sit in the waiting room, so we sat on the front porch.  And I must tell you that a young couple ("girl with the red tights and boots" is what I called her.) actually got up and let us have their front porch perch!  Since we really couldn't converse, there were a lot of smiles back and forth.  And she waited 3 hours as well, with a mother in tow.  Finally, we got to see the doctor, "Dr. Mottu" and she was most friendly.  No white coat or stethoscope.  But she knew little English and we know less French.  So it was a struggle.  She thought I had a breathing problem, it seems. She said I wheezed.  Which I guess I do all the time.  Because this was no different.  What I HAD was a  fever and diarrhea and stomach upset.  Well, after much gesturing back and forth and a stint with the receptionist who spoke English as our translator, Dr. Mottu asked me to take off my blouse, listened to my heart, my lungs, my guts -- and said she thought it was a virus.  She prosribed: Imodium (they call it something else) and tylenol.  Both of which I had been taking.  Oh well.  The visit only cost $30.  But it made me a fan of American medicine.  Dr. Mottu's computer and printer were VERY old.  She had a regular home scale.  And no auto blood pressure machine.  Equipment: substandard. Oh -- blood pressure "bon".

But one VERY interesting thing: as we sat for three hours, we watched the procession of patients come and go.  And transportation?? Most walked.  Some rode bicycles.  A few had cars.  But the main method of transportation for people was the local ambulance service!  The ambulances would pull up, help a person with a cane or walker out, and go away until called again.  This was not an ambulance truck, but more like a taxi service!  And, since France has had universal healthcare since 1945, I bet it was a free ride to the doctors'!

Another important thing.  While, in this small town, people did not speak English and we learned how little French we knew, they were unfailingly friendly, even chatty.  We all tried to communicate.  So score one for the French, who have a reputation of being snooty!  That is not what we have found. But, you ask, why then are the French so much healthier than we are?  I bet you already picked up on it.  The French walk.  Yes, they walk everywhere.  To school. To the shops.  To work.  To the doctors office. And, if they are a little lazy or in a hurry, they ride a bike.  But take a car everywhere?  Well, that's "TOO AMERICAIN!"  Bottom line: The French are into practicalities like moving their bodies regularly, old, young, fat (not too many of those), thin, crippled---everyone!!  Maybe we could cut healthcare costs that way?!

THe end of this story is:  I'm better today, but Bos is now suffering the effects.  And we have come to appreciate the professionalism of our healthcare community.  I love the idea of universal coverage.  I think it should be a right for every person, rich or poor, to have the best care possible. The care we provide for those who can afford it in our country is certainly superior to the care in Ozain (cough-sneeze)--  But the U.S. system IS NOT better than the care we can't provide because people are denied or can't afford it!

Sunday, September 26, 2010

The Valley of Kings...

We've been to the Loire Valley twice, both times with Betsy.  So it seemed natural to retrace our steps and see if it was as magical as we remembered.  So, this morning, leaving the castle keep, we turned Jill GPS north and drove (on superior highways, BTW) to the Loire.  This was the playground for the French kings.  They ALL built castles here for a weekend getaway, sorta like we do with vacation homes at the lake. Only each king tried to outdo the other kings, like some of our status-conscious people in the U.S.!!  In any case, the castles have been a big draw for visitors all year long and you find hordes of people wandering in towns where they exist.

But, now that we are away from the mountainous Alps area, we are in the area of flat fields for as far as the eye can see.  And here is where they grow grapes, among other things, for wines like Vouvray and Sancerre, both of which are white and we like. And there are caves where they grow mushrooms.  I guess wine, which is stored in caves here, has much in common with mushrooms?? The towns wind their way near the Cher and Loire rivers and the area looks way more prosperous than when we were here 10 years ago. Ask Betsy what she remembers and she will tell you it is the hot chocolate she had in a little village called Amboise.  She literally squealed after tasting it. "It really is just melted chocolate! Nothing else!"  And she, to this day, says it is the best chocolate she's ever had!

In any case, we went back to our trusty Domaine des Hauts des Loire, a former hunting estate that is now a hotel.  And, up a set of stairs.  I know, the stairs thing is getting a bit old.  But we are lodged in the top floor of a former stable  AND...we have our own living room, balcony, bathroom with state of the art shower, and separate bedroom.  So the stairs don't seem to matter as much here.


What we remembered from this place was the fabulous meals we had here, especially the cheese course.  Cheeses in France are not pastuerized and they are the most yummy cheeses ever! Betsy said one smelled like old leather boot.  BUT it was yummy! We tried a cheese course in Britian, much to our disappointment, after ummming here.  No comparison! And that's true of the states as well.  So, if you ever get a chance, try it in France.  You'll never want dessert again!  And since we were last here their restaurant has acquired two Michelin stars.  So tonight we had dinner there.

Tomorrow we shall leave our tower and go visit two castles -- Chenanceoux, which is the castle given to his mistress Diane de Poitiers by Henri II -- and then Chambord, which Diane had to accept when Catherine deMedici, Henri's wife, kicked Diane out of Chenanceoux when Henri was killed. The scoop was that Henri II was 12 when he fell in love with the beautiful widow Diane, who was in her 30's -- and stayed in love with her his whole life!  And she remained gorgeous into her 60's (love that part!)  He was forced to mary Catherine de Medici, didn't like her at all (but they had plenty of kids!) and refused to give up his Dianne.  And that is the rest of the story!   This keeps me up to date on my history of French kings!  And, if you know me, I am already hitting the books and wikipedia to extend my knowledge of the area!  Since it is supposed to rain, maybe that is a good thing to do...

Saturday, September 25, 2010

If We Won the Lottery,..



Kitchen
Dining with music
Tonight was special, indeed!  We had a luxurious meal in the dining hall of the castle we are staying in!  The meal was accompanied by a fabulous pianist, who was playing all the 30's and 40's songs I grew up with from my mother.  It actually brought tears to my eyes!  And then I thought, I wish I could bring all you special people with me to enjoy a moment like this!!  I'd whisk you away from the U.S.  and fly you into Paris, where we would take the TGV, their high speed train, to Lyon and a car up to this castle.  No words can really describe the feelings for a place and a moment like this!  So you, our dear friends, would be with us, not just on a blog, but in real life.  If only.....
Grand dining room

"Toto, I Think We're Not in Kansas Anymore..."




We were a little disappointed with our small hotel in St. Auban.  So we were not unhappy to pack up and leave there!  We had become friends of the owner/chef and he proudly told us he was off to be the head chef on the Silver Spirit cruise ship today!  But, all in all, we were glad to leave!
Our room on right 
Main portculus and drawbridge
drawbrigde and moat

Courtyard
Moat and tower



BUT THEN:  well, THEN, after driving through Grenoble and Lyon, we got to Bagnols, the center of the beaujolais wine country.  The grapes are still on the vine, but it is getting close to harvesting.  And the peak drinking time, they tell us, is the third Thursday of November. As we careened up and down small country roads in the rain, we were stunned to see a huge ancient castle spring up in front of us!


See the toilet?
Bath






13th century tapistry
Loius XIV silk bed drapes




Front facing valley


See arrow slits?
Moat from drawbridge







Reception hall
 What is this, we asked ourselves?  To be perfectly honest, "it" is where we are staying tonight.  It is called Chateau de Bagnols and was built in the 13th century on top of a hill where you can see the grape fields stretching on and on.  How do I rhapsodize this?  It has those thick stone walls you read about i books or see in movies.  And a moat. Really, with gates to let you in.   And stables.  And big rooms with tall ceilings and fireplaces (even in our bedroom).  And a banquet hall.  And a courtyard.  And -- on and on and on.  You know what else?  It has an elevator.  Like a modern hotel.  And it has up-to-date bathrooms with toilets bidets, two sinks, deep tubs and personal shower nozzles.  They even hid the toilet in a big wooden period chair!  Wifi?  Of course.  And telephones.  And a 4 star french chef who will be preparing our dinner tonight!  And then -- a wine tasting with the sommelier.

 Now THIS is what I was hoping for!  This is as close as one can get to feeling like a lady in the 13th century, living in a castle, waiting for her knight in shining armor.  And who would that be?  It would have to be : My Bosworth.  Oops.  Gotta go.  The church bells in the village chime on the hour, telling me it is time to explore some more!  Au revoir!!!
Great view from reception hall
We're happy!
Orchard and grape arbor
Grand banquet hall withold wine press

Listening for "The Sound of Music"

Who knew that the French have Alps as impressive as the Swiss or the Germans or even us?!  We found that out today.  Now they call them "Haute Alpes", which means "high alps"-- but they so low key about the whole deal!  The French (and visitors) make a big deal out of Provence and the south of France.  But we, in the states, seldom hear about the FRENCH Alps unless Prince William decides to visit.  So today we jumped in the car to explore -- with only Jill GPS to help.


What did we find?  You may have read (or just heard about) Peter Mayle's book, "A Year in Provence", about him renovating what we call "an opportunity property" in Provence.  Well, yes, technically the tumbledown house was in Provence ... but more correctly it was in the Haute Alpes.  And we found the little village, Menerbes, perched on a hill, where Mayle lived. And we cautiously climbed the winding road up the hill into the village where, miracle of miracles, we found a parking spot!  You see, these medieval towns were all built on the top of hills, so they could see the attacking knights approaching.  Well, no knights today, but lots and lots of scenery.  The fields of lavender have been harvested, so they are sitting fallow.  But the grape vines are heavy with ripe grapes, ready for harvesting.  The crops are all planted in the valleys surrounding the mountain towns.  ANYWAY, after winding up the cobblestone streets wide enough for only one car at best, we parked and started wandering.  It was 1 p.m., which means a lot of the little stores are closed.  But we got our fill of our Rosetta Stone French, seeing signs for boulangerie (bakery),  la charcuterie (Deli), la pecherie (fish market) -- and IMMOBILER (which means "real estate agents".  

Well, couldn't stop with that!  So we browsed the windows of the real estate office to see what things cost in this little out of the way village.  There is a tv show on HG TV in the states called "Househunters International" which fascinates us. We watch people from different countries go somewhere and pick a vacation home from 3 they look at.  It's fun to try to guess which one they will pick!  And, most often, it seems, they pick what Bos calls "an opportunity house."  That means it is a pile of stones, no plumbing, no wiring, no kitchen, no bathroom.  And they pay exorbitant amounts for it!  For instance, one couple was in Greece and picked a house on top of a hill with 1000 steps (really) there.  It was tumbling down and barely had walls -- so no rooms per se. No kitchen, bathroom, etc.  And the only way building materials could get up there was by donkey.  What did they pay?  SOmething like 250,000 euros.  That's  mind-boggling.  ANYWAY, we saw lots of "opportunity houses" all over the countryside.  And the prices didn't reflect the tumbledown aspect at all!  Guess Europeans like work!

But we stopped on a small patio at the top of the village for a little lunch of salade nicoise (very French) and a bottle of vin d'ordinaire.  Next to us was a group of bicyclers from the states biking all over for their vacation.  And a couple from Canada.  Another couple from England.  So I asked them about their healthcare and if they would rather have ours.  They looked horrified!  No, they said, in unison. They loe universal coverage!  But don't you have to wait for service, I asked??  No, they protested.  In Canada, you might have to wait 6 months for ELECTIVE surgery.


But only elective!  In England, no waiting, they proclaimed.  It was, all in all, a wonderful afternoon!  No one pushing us.  No cathedrals to visit.  Just us, wandering and learning.

Friday, September 24, 2010

Getting to Chateaux Arnoux Sainte Auban


Herds
We sat back and watched the 'herds' scramble off the ship in Monte Carlo to get their various transports home in the face of a French transport strike.  We felt comfortable. We had a hired car to take us to Nice airport to get a rental car.  When we were to meet our driver , he was not there.  We walked up the pier looking and looking when suddenly the driver showed up, with the other Mr. and Mrs. Irvine on the ship.
Apparently he loaded them up and said they were off to the Nice airport.  Thank goodness that's not where they wanted to go, or we would have been in a fix!  So, they unloaded the faux Irvines stuff, loaded ours and away we went.
Monaco yachts
'Jill" told us the fastest route once we got in the car and we decided that we had the time to take the 'senic' route of shorter distance and as we found, twice the time.  It goes through the Alps.
Wonderful views and lots of switchbacks!  Cute villages and lots of cyclists.  Unlike England, these rural roads had enough width for two cars to pass.   The roaring rivers that we should see were a trickle since they have had not much rain and all the snow has melted long ago.
We kept 'Jill' tuned to Digne (pronounced Deen neh) and when we got there we rerouted to the hotel. It was easy to find.  I have to say again that he roads we've seen in France were good, but a lot of them are toll roads.  However, while we have a lot of people attending the toll booths, theirs are largely automated taking coin, bills, credit cards and speed passes.  (Our driver in Nice claimed that the french invented this.) We don't mind;.The roads are good!
When we arrived at La Bonne Etape we had 'de ja vu'.  Stairs again!  One looong curving flight to reception  and a flight down to the room.  This was not so bad for us after some of the other stuff we've done a since dining was a the reception level.  The strange thing was.... no lift and no porters!  So, the tiny twig of girl was going lug our bags up all by herself.  That wouldn't do, so over her objections I and the Chef/ Owner got them to the room.
We did get a nice room after checking those available, just wish it had a separate shower.  Oh well,  we took soaking baths.