How do they live in Bulgaria?????

Today was a beautiful day...sun shining ... sky blue as an aquamarine...and we had landed in Nessebur, Bulgaria.  Our plan:  going to two villages to observe and learn about Bulgarian life.  How interesting!

Bulgaria was part of the Soviet Union until 1990.  The interesting part is that, while we would think they would be happy to be “free” of the Soviets, there are, in their opinion, good things and bad things about that!  More later on about that!

Our first village had 1,000 people in it, with dirt roads and houses with tile roofs, many falling in and down.  We stopped at a typical Bulgarian home, with a couple rooms, owned by an older lady who probably made her living by showing off her home to tourists.  We saw lots of old artifacts from their lives, as 2 buckets balanced on the ends

of a sturdy tree branch, used for bringing water twice a day to the house. The young girls would put a flower in their hair on the way to the central well, which meant that girl was available.  The young men would hang around the well, looking for the girls.  And they would try to take the flower.  If they got the flower, they would meet at the well for the afternoon water-getting.  And that meant they were a couple.  Most marriages were arranged and the couple would only meet at the wedding.  Much simpler than eHarmony or something!

Then we walked in the host’s garden, which proved to us that most people in the village were self-sufficient.  She grew everything from long stringy pumpkins, strawberries, apples, squash, beans -- and even raised her own chickens for eggs and rabbits for meat!  She had two darling little puppies that were going to be her guard dogs!  She served us lemonade and another puff pastry roll filled with feta.  Our guide said lemonade was the only drink they had during the Soviet era--no Cokes, soft drinks, etc.

About the Soviet period:  Everything was “free”.  As Bulgaria is a big farming area, they find now they have no market in the West.  So they would like to export their farms’ goods to the East and apparently that is not happening now.  Healthcare was free; now they need insurance and if they don’t have it, they can’t get care.  Teachers make the equivalent of $200 a month and apartments or homes cost more than $400 a month.  So most people share apartments.  However, even during the Soviet era, many Bulgarians owned their own homes.  (But you should see the homes!)  

They have a problem with gypsies. Gypsies came originally from Romania, where we will be tomorrow.  But in Bulgaria they get state subsidies including more money for each baby they have.  So they only do itinerant work, if they need some cash.  But they have no incentive to work regularly.  And they live in tents (that is true in Turkey as well!) which they move around.  Their children do not go to school, so all gypsies are illiterate.  And they do steal from locals and tourists. 

Bulgaria is now part of NATO and the EU.  THis has proved good for the country, as they have gotten an infusion of EU money for roads and schools.  However, in Bulgaria, the money for roads disappeared, with graft and corruption.  The guide said in Romania, also a member of the EU, the money has gone to improving roads and putting people to work.  A big difference between the two countries.

This is the only country where nodding up and down means no and side to side means yes.  That happened when the TUrks conquered the Bulgarians and tried to make them convert to Islam.  The whole country adopted this nodding thing secretly so when the Turks asked if they would convert, they nodded up and down --- which meant “no”.  And they would not be killed!

We also visited a small church.  The people who are religious are Eastern Orthodox, similar to Greek and RUssian Orthodox.  But, because of the Soviets, most of the young people are not religious, as religion was not permitted in SOviet countries. As in Greek and RUssian Orthodox churches, members do not sit during the service -- and this church was so small they shared a priest with another village!

Next we were on to another village of 800 people, where we met with the 31-year-old mayor, a member of the Socialist party.  He was, to be honest, darling!!  And he talked to us in Bulgarian for about 45 minutes, where our guide translated.  However, he laughed at questions, so he understood...  

Our guide told us Brits are buying up ground and homes in the area for vacation homes.  That amazed me, as Bulgaria has all 4 seasons and it gets as high as 115 degrees in the summer and as low as 20 in the winter!  They have beaches and mountains for ski slopes.  We met some British friends who said people will always be looking for a bargain and he estimated that you could buy a house here for 40-60,000 Euros. But it might need some work.  My comment: no thank you!

Products: mainly farming, as we saw lots and lots of fields with really beautiful brown soil (not Mo. clay!), fields of grape vines for Bulgarian wine (supposed to be good), and of course tourists!!  

I’ve spewed all I know for now...on to another Soviet satellite, Romania (where the gypsies come from) and then the Ukraine.  

We are finding that the internet connections are getting worse and worse as we go around the Black Sea, so we are having to write these in word and then try to post...