THIS AND THAT IN VIETNAM

What to do?  What to do?  Another day in Vietnam...this time is Da Nang.  And where we docked is miles (they say kilometers, which screws me up completely!) from anywhere.  So we decided to take the day off from sightseeing and enjoy the cooler weather and, instead, go to a resort from the shp's shuttle.  Boy, was that a mistake!  I was dying to try out their pool and maybe bob in the ocean a bit.  But the ocean was full of debris and the pool had no stairs to get in it.  Now, if I were skinny and lithe, maybe I could pull myself out of the water.  But not this gal!  So, discouraged, we took the shuttle back to the boat and decided to write the day off.  Except.  Yes, except.  Because we rushed up to the 11th floor, which is the pool deck -- and there was nobody there!  Now, I don't mean REALLY nobody, but only a few people and the staff.  So, we decided for the first time EVER to try the ship's pool.  And what a pleasure it was!!  There were steps...yes, steps... to get in.  And the water was sparkling clean and chilly,  But the chilly felt wonderful after trudging in Vietnam heat back to the ship.  And, after doing our version of water aerobics alone in the pool, we got a dip in the ship's hot tub.  Yum.  Now that it is cooler, we decided to lounge on a LOUNGE on the pool deck to dry off and, with soft breezes blowing, we both fell asleep on what is turning out to be our perfect day!

We also got to chat again with our captain, who was sauntering past our lounges on the pool deck.  We told him about our resort experience and he agreed that the ship is the perfect resort vacation!  But, more than that, I told him how much I admired him, although he looks like he's just a "pup" in age!  You see, he is the bst captain we've ever experienced.  He keeps us informed about what is going on,  For instance, yesterday the ship gave a noticeable list to one side and promptly, he got on the intercom to tell us that he had to avoid a 2-1/2 mile net  across the channel.  Do you know what could have happened if that net had gone unnoticed and gotten into our 4 motors?  Can you say "Celebrity Triumph", stopped in the middle of the ocean!  And he told us he also had to avoid another 4 mile net yesterday as well.  How do they know?  Observation.  Plain looking.  He spotted the fishing markers and counted as many as he could see.  I remember when another ship did get a net caught and lost power several years ago.  And it was his expertise that kept us sidled into a barrier island in Brisbane harbor when, going outside would have exposed us to 18 foot waves.  This gentleman knows his stuff and I think few guests on the ship understand how important his skill is, as most often things go so smoothly.  Just had to give a shout out to the Captain.

So, as part of our perfect day, we need to go to teatime, followed my teatime trivia.  Then anothr gourmet meal.  Yawn.  Back to touring tomorrow.  But I'm not sure I wouldn't rather be on the pool deck with that chilly water there to wake me up and put me to sleep!!

And It Was a Long Time Homecoming…

And It Was a Long Time Homecoming…

You might have guessed.  Since we are spending 6 days in Vietnam, we have met a large number of Vietnam War Vets who are taking this cruise to reacquaint themselves with the country they spent a war in.

And I can’t help but compare now and then.  When these guys came home in 1975, they were vilified.  They had difficulties finding jobs.  They hid the fact that they served in Vietnam.  Many of them became ashamed.

And now, our returning troops are lauded as heroes.  When we got off a plane in Buffalo New York several months ago, there were people lining the concourse to welcome the returning heroes, with signs, balloons, and hugs.  What a difference.

So last night we had dinner with one of the Vietnam vets, living now n Phoenix, and his wife.  He was 19 when he enlisted in the Marines.  His father had been in the service and he felt it was his duty to help his country.  Of course, he had married before he left for Vietnam and his wife, Raeline, was pregnant with their first child.

Her family, southern Baptists, had disowned her for married a Jewish fellow, so she was taken in my his family in New Jersey and lived with them, waiting and worrying whether she would have a husband who came home.

When we asked Rich if he was scared, he said, “Every single day. I had no idea what to expect, but when I got there and they started shooting at me, I automatically had that survival instinct kick in.”  And he said it stayed with him for his entire 12 months of service. 

When he did come home, he ripped off his uniform, bought a pair of jeans and t-shirt and pretended he had never been to Vietnam.  Except when he got home to New Jersey.  You see, the military required him to wear his uniform when he was mustered out of the service.  And he said he would never forget, the crowds of people yelling vile names and phrases at the troops as they stood there.

So why was he on this cruise?  Well, Raelene talked him into it.  About ten years ago, he said, he came to terms with his service in Vietnam.  He met other vets who had served back them and slowly but surely began to wear a baseball cap with “Vietnam Veteran” on its face.  And he got himself a tee shirt that proclaimed his service as well.  And this small group finally started feeling proud --- key word: proud.

So, here we are visiting the country and the cities these men, a group of about 50 of them, remembered with fear and some, loathing.  And they proclaim it has changed.  They admit the people are friendly and call it “The American War”.  We always say one should face one’s greatest fears head on.  These men, no longer young, are doing just that – and they are winning.  They are sharing stories, as they did with us.  They visited the Chi tunnels under the streets of Saigon. 

“You know, “ said Rich. “Those Viet Cong dug these tight fitting tunnels under the Army base and would cover the openings with twigs and leaves.  Then they would pop up, shoot us, and go back down.  They even had pictures of Bob Hope on stage, because their tunnels, unknown to us, were right under our base!”

Finally.  Finally, these guys are getting some of their due.  Maybe not like the new “heroes” of today’s wars, but they feel some pride of their accomplishment.  And they are facing it head on here in Vietnam! 

GOOD MORNING, VIETNAM!

After Bangkok, we really didn’t have much hope for the rest of Southeast Asia.  So we grudgingly floated into Saigon, Vietnam for a two-day stay.  We thought, “Yawn”.  Only it wasn’t.  In fact, it was the one redeeming view we have had of this part of the world. 

Ubiquitous motorbikes.

 

Our only impression of Vietnam was, like many Americans of our age, the war.  It was a hated, horrible war with no clear distinctions between who was fighting for the north and who for the south.  And Americans, who at that time were being drafted into the military, hated the confusion, the swamps, the weather and the war in general.  But, what we found is a modern city, relatively clean compared to Bangkok, full of 9 million smiling people who appear to love Americans.  Hard to believe, isn’t it?

Presdential palace

Front door of new US embassy

Upscale department store near post office

Saigon was planned by the French, who occupied the country from some time in the late 18^th century.  So they laid out the city on French planning principles – which included wide wide boulevards, lined with green trees and punctuated by lovely parks full of greenery and flowers.  Even in China Town, where you find the junkiest, dirtiest areas, the wide streets make it seem not so bad.  And, as you drive along, you see high-rise hotels, high rise office buildings, stores like Prada, Chopard, Chanel, etc.

Our guide was funny.  Every time we passed a hotel, he would say,” That is a five star hotel.”  So we have decided every hotel in Saigon must be a five star (chuckle).

We stopped at the Rex Hotel, a prestigious hotel in the middle of downtown Saigon, where the newsmen and generals stayed during the war.  And, in the evening, we went back to the Rex for a cocktail party with local entertainment on the roof, overlooking Saigon by night – a totally different city!

More heros for the future
Soviet style
Note the sputnik

Wedding photo shoot in ron of the post office
 ; what a nice day for it!

Heros of the war.

Now some facts:  Vietnam has 90 million people, 9 of which live in Saigon.  And the sign of prosperity is to own a motorbike, or even two!  Motorbikes are everywhere, sometimes with families of 4 and 5 riding on them!  It was not unusual to see a father in front, a baby on his back, and a mother and maybe an older child in back.. You didn’t see many cars – just motorbikes, motorbike shops, motorbike accessory shops, everywhere!  It is the main form of transportation to work, to play, to home.

Street scene

Cathedral of Notre Dame

Another 'Five Star Hotel 

Japanese built bridge

A funny and clever fact is that the fanciest contemporary bridge over the Saigon river was built by the Japanese.  You ask, why?  Well, the Japanese knew their investment in Vietnam would result in more and more Japanese motorbikes being sold here, rather than what the Vietnamese call cheap versions of motorbikes from China! 

Entrance to Hotel Rex

Dazzling floral display in the center

Uncle Ho

Which brings us to China.  The Vietnamese do not like or trust the Chinese.  They acknowledge that the Chinese are good businessmen and smart, but they maintain they are not trustworthy.  Right now there is struggle over a couple of islands belonging to Vietnam that have oil.  The Chinese are trying to claim them.  They also continue to infringe on the fishing rights in Vietnamese waters.  So the Chinese are out.  But what’s “in”?  What’s “in” is Bill Clinton.  They adore Bill Clinton because he lifted the trade ban in the 1990’s, visited Saigon and even ate in a noodle shop they renamed for him, quite proudly!!  Some of the shiny Bill Clinton glory also extends to Americans, which they love also.  Quite a change from the 1970’s.

Herbal shop

Men doing what men world over do

Entrance to the main market.
Bargaining!!

In 1975 when the USA pulled out of Vietnam, the Communists from the north flooded down and took over Saigon and the city.  So, officially, the country is Communist.  However, they even will tell you that they are very Capitalistic, because they can earn enough that way to feed their families and live.  So our feeling is that they are Communistic in name only.  They are Capitalistic in every other way – and you see it everywhere!  Bargaining is the name of the game here and often you can get 60% off on items.

Father and kids

KFC with all the
motorbikes

Small side street

Newer Apartment$$$ along the canal

Old canalside shanty homes
soon to be removed for apartments

Canal side Apartment$$$$ New

Oriental style Christian church

What does it take to live in Vietnam?  The average income is $300 per month.  Our guide told us that you really need $500 per month to put a little away for savings.  And, despite what you think a communistic society would provide, we found that even public education costs here.  For a pubic school, you pay $100 a year.  For a private school,  $100 a month.  For an international school, it would cost you $10,000 per year.  There is no free health care.  You pay your way and often it is herbal medicine that you use to cure your ills.  There is also no social security or retirement provision.  Families are expected to care for their elderly without government help.  What the government is doing is tearing down the shanty towns and providing land for people to build new apartments.  And you can see those high rise apartments lining the Saigon River as it snakes through town.  I hesitate to say the town is “clean” because it really is not in most districts.  But an attempt is being made to improve living conditions a bit.  While the country is supposed to be one of the poorest in the world, we found the people some of the nicest, most open people we’ve met in our travels. 

 Shop street with all those motorbikes

Really tall apartments

Now, Saigon by night becomes a whole different world.  When the sun goes down, the “under-town” lights up and you see small shop after small shop after small shop brightly lit.  People are playing cards, eating at noodle shops, admiring each others’ motorbikes, shopping in department stores.  And tall buildings are lit up with flashing lights.  Still the motorbikes everywhere.  But the heat has abated, the soft breezes cool you, and the beautiful people buoy you up.  We saw a performance on the roof of the Rex Hotel of traditional Vietnamese dances and music along with a performance by the Miss Saigon contestants.  It was a magical evening, after which we went to a restaurant for a traditional Vietnamese dinner.   The dishes, by the way, were very similar to the Chinese dishes in America. 

Musician playing a bamboo
equivalent of a Glokenspiel

Miss Saigon dancers

Us at dinner, in the wine cellar

Downtown from the Rex
roof top bar

The central square from Rex rooftop

A fisherman pulling his traps
right next to the ship

Tomorrow we will be in Da Nang for two days and, after that, we will have two days in Hanoi.  I can’t imagine it will be any better than Saigon.  “Good Morning, Vietnam!”