GOOD MORNING, VIETNAM!

After Bangkok, we really didn’t have much hope for the rest of Southeast Asia.  So we grudgingly floated into Saigon, Vietnam for a two-day stay.  We thought, “Yawn”.  Only it wasn’t.  In fact, it was the one redeeming view we have had of this part of the world. 

Ubiquitous motorbikes.

 

Our only impression of Vietnam was, like many Americans of our age, the war.  It was a hated, horrible war with no clear distinctions between who was fighting for the north and who for the south.  And Americans, who at that time were being drafted into the military, hated the confusion, the swamps, the weather and the war in general.  But, what we found is a modern city, relatively clean compared to Bangkok, full of 9 million smiling people who appear to love Americans.  Hard to believe, isn’t it?

Presdential palace

Front door of new US embassy

Upscale department store near post office

Saigon was planned by the French, who occupied the country from some time in the late 18^th century.  So they laid out the city on French planning principles – which included wide wide boulevards, lined with green trees and punctuated by lovely parks full of greenery and flowers.  Even in China Town, where you find the junkiest, dirtiest areas, the wide streets make it seem not so bad.  And, as you drive along, you see high-rise hotels, high rise office buildings, stores like Prada, Chopard, Chanel, etc.

Our guide was funny.  Every time we passed a hotel, he would say,” That is a five star hotel.”  So we have decided every hotel in Saigon must be a five star (chuckle).

We stopped at the Rex Hotel, a prestigious hotel in the middle of downtown Saigon, where the newsmen and generals stayed during the war.  And, in the evening, we went back to the Rex for a cocktail party with local entertainment on the roof, overlooking Saigon by night – a totally different city!

More heros for the future
Soviet style
Note the sputnik

Wedding photo shoot in ron of the post office
 ; what a nice day for it!

Heros of the war.

Now some facts:  Vietnam has 90 million people, 9 of which live in Saigon.  And the sign of prosperity is to own a motorbike, or even two!  Motorbikes are everywhere, sometimes with families of 4 and 5 riding on them!  It was not unusual to see a father in front, a baby on his back, and a mother and maybe an older child in back.. You didn’t see many cars – just motorbikes, motorbike shops, motorbike accessory shops, everywhere!  It is the main form of transportation to work, to play, to home.

Street scene

Cathedral of Notre Dame

Another 'Five Star Hotel 

Japanese built bridge

A funny and clever fact is that the fanciest contemporary bridge over the Saigon river was built by the Japanese.  You ask, why?  Well, the Japanese knew their investment in Vietnam would result in more and more Japanese motorbikes being sold here, rather than what the Vietnamese call cheap versions of motorbikes from China! 

Entrance to Hotel Rex

Dazzling floral display in the center

Uncle Ho

Which brings us to China.  The Vietnamese do not like or trust the Chinese.  They acknowledge that the Chinese are good businessmen and smart, but they maintain they are not trustworthy.  Right now there is struggle over a couple of islands belonging to Vietnam that have oil.  The Chinese are trying to claim them.  They also continue to infringe on the fishing rights in Vietnamese waters.  So the Chinese are out.  But what’s “in”?  What’s “in” is Bill Clinton.  They adore Bill Clinton because he lifted the trade ban in the 1990’s, visited Saigon and even ate in a noodle shop they renamed for him, quite proudly!!  Some of the shiny Bill Clinton glory also extends to Americans, which they love also.  Quite a change from the 1970’s.

Herbal shop

Men doing what men world over do

Entrance to the main market.
Bargaining!!

In 1975 when the USA pulled out of Vietnam, the Communists from the north flooded down and took over Saigon and the city.  So, officially, the country is Communist.  However, they even will tell you that they are very Capitalistic, because they can earn enough that way to feed their families and live.  So our feeling is that they are Communistic in name only.  They are Capitalistic in every other way – and you see it everywhere!  Bargaining is the name of the game here and often you can get 60% off on items.

Father and kids

KFC with all the
motorbikes

Small side street

Newer Apartment$$$ along the canal

Old canalside shanty homes
soon to be removed for apartments

Canal side Apartment$$$$ New

Oriental style Christian church

What does it take to live in Vietnam?  The average income is $300 per month.  Our guide told us that you really need $500 per month to put a little away for savings.  And, despite what you think a communistic society would provide, we found that even public education costs here.  For a pubic school, you pay $100 a year.  For a private school,  $100 a month.  For an international school, it would cost you $10,000 per year.  There is no free health care.  You pay your way and often it is herbal medicine that you use to cure your ills.  There is also no social security or retirement provision.  Families are expected to care for their elderly without government help.  What the government is doing is tearing down the shanty towns and providing land for people to build new apartments.  And you can see those high rise apartments lining the Saigon River as it snakes through town.  I hesitate to say the town is “clean” because it really is not in most districts.  But an attempt is being made to improve living conditions a bit.  While the country is supposed to be one of the poorest in the world, we found the people some of the nicest, most open people we’ve met in our travels. 

 Shop street with all those motorbikes

Really tall apartments

Now, Saigon by night becomes a whole different world.  When the sun goes down, the “under-town” lights up and you see small shop after small shop after small shop brightly lit.  People are playing cards, eating at noodle shops, admiring each others’ motorbikes, shopping in department stores.  And tall buildings are lit up with flashing lights.  Still the motorbikes everywhere.  But the heat has abated, the soft breezes cool you, and the beautiful people buoy you up.  We saw a performance on the roof of the Rex Hotel of traditional Vietnamese dances and music along with a performance by the Miss Saigon contestants.  It was a magical evening, after which we went to a restaurant for a traditional Vietnamese dinner.   The dishes, by the way, were very similar to the Chinese dishes in America. 

Musician playing a bamboo
equivalent of a Glokenspiel

Miss Saigon dancers

Us at dinner, in the wine cellar

Downtown from the Rex
roof top bar

The central square from Rex rooftop

A fisherman pulling his traps
right next to the ship

Tomorrow we will be in Da Nang for two days and, after that, we will have two days in Hanoi.  I can’t imagine it will be any better than Saigon.  “Good Morning, Vietnam!”