Pictures From Bermuda

Waves and Bos' feet 

Beach

House on way to beach

Blowout on the way to the beach

"our" Pool

Tuckers Point Hotel entrance

Well protected child at the beach looking much as we expect
our grandchild Iris to look her first time at the beach.

Our Porch

Typical Bermuda roof tops for capturing the rain and storing to the cistern.

The view from Our room

Our own personal poolside cabana

Who Are The "Bubble People"?

We've seen them all over this summer.  Well, not so much in St. Louis, but definitely in NYC and now in Bermuda.  And I can't take credit for the label:  Bubble People. Bos was the one that first noticed and labelled it. You see, everywhere we turn we see these  pre-teens, teens, 20's, 30's, even 40's for which the label seems absolutely appropriate!

Who are these Bubble kids?  They appear to be the offspring of the very wealthy, who grew up wealthy and, inside their bubbles, have no idea what it is like to live a "normal" life.  In fact, they figure the lives they are leading are normal.  For everyone.  Well, maybe not for everyone.  But those who don't have a bubble life really don't count.

These are the kids who don't know how to get up from a crowded bus to offer their seat to an elderly person.  These are the kids who stay at the best hotels, eat at the best restaurants, who hobnob with the children of their parents "bubble friends."  They all go to prep schools and follow that with Dartmouth, Princeton, Yale, even Harvard.  Certainly Duke.  Maybe Vanderbilt, if they want to step down a bit.  And, if they do an internship, it is with the Wealth Management Division of J.P. Morgan Chase, arranged by their parents.

And the young wives all have huge diamond rings and earrings, beachbags from Lily Pulitzer, and custom made golf clubs to match their husbands' clubs. The trappings of wealth. At such an early age. They are the first to sign up for a day at the spa and they have nannies at home, if not with them at the beach.

What, I wonder, what do they think of the rest of us?  Or DO they think of the rest of us? At all?  And, if their fortune were suddenly to leave them, how would they adapt to the regular working world?!  I also wonder how their children, babies now, will adapt to the real 21st century. Or will they HAVE to adapt.  Can they, too, continue in a bubble? For generations??  The irony is: the bubble people THINK they are living a normal life.  They don't know they have privilege that the rest of the world can only dream of.

 Maybe  that is why the Republicans are working so hard to not pay more taxes!  They certainly don't want the "bubble" to burst. To force their children to have to find work outside of Wall Street or their best friends' companies.  On the fast track now.  Will it last?

So, if you think these posh hotels should be for oldies who are enjoying their golden years, think again.  Doubt that we oldies lived in a "bubble."  We say that somewhat wistfully.

Bermuda: No, They're Not Car Alarms...

The first time, we think it was in 1995 or 1996, we flew to Bermuda, we arrived as dusk was falling.  We didn't have any idea about the island except we were here on a real estate retreat.  And the first sounds we heard were akin to thousands of car alarm sirens going off continuously!  It was an eery sound.  One we couldn't place.  It sounded like ghosts or at least really spooky.  Asking our taxi driver, he laughed and told us they were the island's tree frogs, no bigger than the nail on your little finger.  Lots of noise for a teeny tree frog.  And they keep up the din all night long.

 In fact, in 1506, the Spanish, under Juan de Bermudez, were the first explorers to find the island, but fled after naming it "the Devil Islands."  Wonder if it was the din of the frogs that scared them?!  And trivia: Shakespeare"s "Tempest" is supposed to be about Bermuda.  Were their tree frogs in that??

But it was the English who ultimately settled Bermuda -- by accident.  Remember Jamestown?  Yup.  The one in Virginia.  Well, Sir George Somers set off proudly for Jamestown from England with 9 ships and 650 sailors and settlers.  Seems the weather didn't cooperate for one of the ships, the Sea Venture, and they were blown off course right into the reef surrounding Bermuda.  In fact, they actually WANTED to land on the reef, as they wouldn't sink totally that way.  Anyway, there were 150 people and one dog shipwrecked here.  For 10 months.  They tried to send out a longboat with a home-made sail, but those guys disappeared.  So, after a time, they cannibalized the Sea Venture and used some of the Bermuda cedar trees and built 2 new ships, the Deliverance and the Patience, to continue their journey to Jamestown.

Brave souls, they.  When they reached their destination, where 500 of the settlers had landed, they found only 60 remaining and they were starving and almost dead.  Luckily, the rescuers had brought some provisions with them from Bermuda, but not enough -- and Bermuda hogs that were running wild on the island.
(By the way, that is why the old Bermuda money was called the "Hog Penny" and it really has a pig stamped on it!  With all those sick people there, Somers decided to go back to England via Bermuda where he left 3 volunteers to keep the island for England.  Unfortunately though, Somers got so much pork, he died and they pickled him, stuffed him in a barrel and returned him to England as well!

As to why Bermuda got the reputation of being scary, it might also have been those pesky reefs!  You see, the island is surrounded by an almost complete reef.  And there are many many shipwrecks throughout the waters for divers to explore.  In fact, old privateers used to put lanterns on the reef to lure unknowing ships to their demise, getting hung up on the reef and ultimately sinking after the privateers stripped them of their booty!

The popularity of this island as a vacation spot began in the Victorian age where it was cooler in the summer and milder in the winter for all those women wearing corsets and long dresses.  And, since the island is only 21 miles long,  they had a railway system to go from one end to the other.  There was, at one time, a British Naval station here and we Americans also had one.  And those Victorian mothers, always looking out for their daughters of marriageable age, brought them here to get a British officer to marry them!

So, we've been coming here almost every year since 1996 -- time enough for the Bermudians to tear down our two favorite hotels.  But we come for their crystal clear (really) beaches with pink sand and gentle waves.  And we've come here long enough that they've rebuilt one of the hotels -- at our very favorite beach.  The restauranteurs know us, which is comforting.  And we've met very interesting people -- mostly New Yorkers!

At home, when we say we are going to Bermuda, people will say "Oh, we've been to the Bahamas too."  Folks, this is NOT in the Caribbean.  It is in the middle of the Atlantic halfway between Spain and North Carolina.  No other islands even close!!  BUT when we get off the plane and hear those little frogs and the din of the car alarms, we say, "Guess we're 'home' again!"

Last ruminations of NYC...

 You meet the most interesting people on trips!  And that is doubly true in NYC!!  We were sitting quietly on a sofa in the club room at the Ritz, when a whirling cloud of white, head to toe, swirled in and sat across from us.  With two daughters, a son and a very quiet and tired husband.  "Miranda" was larger than life.  And her tee shirt had not so strategically placed cloth roses, one over each "tassel area" and one in the middle to even things out.  And rings.  Well, she had lots of rings, all diamond and larger than life.  And necklaces, long long necklaces -- from Chanel.I knew that from the double C's on the necklace. The jewelry made me think of Texas.  But, no, they were from Virginia.  And they were waiting for their 3 (yes, three) rooms to be ready to check in.  Hoards of people check in for the weekends and they had to wait 4 hours in the lounge.  Understandably, tired.  Except for Miranda.  Who talked and talked.

Her daughters, age 16 and 18, were called "Chanel" and "Prada".  Her son, 21, grumpily along for the trip and very vocal about it, said the only thing he wanted to do in NYC was to go to the Baretta shop and buy more guns.  He had one more year at VMI, Virginia Military Academy.  And told us that he usually sleeps all day and everything he wants to do is at night.  (P.S. They bought two guns and were ecstatic!  Can you say, maybe we should be scared!)  I did ask him what he intended to do when he graduated.  Was he planning on going into military service maybe??  After all, he has lots of guns, it seems.  But he wants to be CIA or FBI, he said.  Popping into my head: "Can you buy your way into those type of services??"

And the next day Chanel and Prada went to Saks.  Into a private room.  I didn't know they had private rooms.  Oh well. And Miranda bought them all new school wardrobes.  Yup.  All new.  At Saks.  For school.  Then, they told us, they were off to Tiffanys.  I took the moment to tell her about Eileen Fisher at 395 W. Broadway in Soho, as she is a large woman also, in both presence and real life.  I suppose she bought out the entire store.  They'll have a spike in sales there, I'm sure!!

We became so cozy (she really liked me, I must admit) they were asking us for dinner recommendations and telling us how her "kids" didn't like dbBistro ("There's nothing on this menu I can eat," said Prada).  So I figured I could ask a few more probing questions.  After all I had heard about her 3 homes, including the 'farm" on the Chesapeake.  And her nanny and her husband's nanny, whose daughter has now been Miranda's "maid" for 18 years. And all her friends have maids and nannies.  Do teenagers need nannies, I wonder?? (All in reference to the upcoming movie "The Help".  She said, in reference to that, that she "knew" every character in the novel, from her and her family's life experiences).  So --- here goes.

Me: "Miranda, if I may ask, what does your husband do?"
Miranda: "He pays the bills"  Seriously, she said that.
Me:  Can I ask where all your  money comes from?"  I know that was gutsy, but I also knew I'd never see her again!
Miranda:  "Oh.  My husband's great great grandfather was one of the original investors in Coca Cola."
Me:  "I see.  I understand.  Off to Tiffanys you go." I wonder if they have private rooms at Tiffanys?

Wonder what great great grandpa would be thinking of his "investment" now?  Wonder if Grandpa knew of private rooms at Saks and Tiffanys jewelry rather than just lamps?!

As I said, interesting people.  Can't wait to see 'The Help" and muse on which one is Miranda!!

Book of Mormon

I just want to shout it from the housetops! "Book of Mormon" So funny.  I wish there were a word that was more emphatic than "funny".  And the music was fabulous as well.  Some parts I laughed out loud so much I couldn't catch my breath!  Bad language?  Well, need I mention that the creators of this Broadway musical also created "South Park".  So, if you don't like some raunchy words, you may want to skip this show.  BUT the two main actors, Josh Gad (whom I'm sure you've seen in other things like "Putnam County Spelling Bee") and Andrew Rannells (also in "Hairspray" and "Jersey Boys") were just the perfect couple -- one short and dumpy, the other tall and skinny.  Premise?  Two 19-year-old Mormon boys get sent to Uganda to recruit new Mormons.  That's all I will say.  But it should play on Broadway for a long time and eventually make it to the provinces.  Great great show.  Every show is sold out for months --- long long longggg lines of ticket holders line up to just get inside the theater!  And we know tickets are expensive now: one woman we talked to paid $500 each and another $800 each!  Ridiculous?  Great show, BUT, yes, ridiculous...

Dinner last night was another story.  We went to "Jean Georges" in the Trump International Hotel.  Must wear a jacket and tie.  They called 3 times to remind us of that and make sure we were coming.  And the dinner was fine.  We, again did the tasting menu.  But it had a hard time comparing to 11 Madison Park from a couple nights ago.  Madison Park was SOOOO cutting edge, if you read the blog on that.  This was more traditional and, as I said, good.  Just not great.  The servers were very nice and they made sure we had a great table.  I'm just sayin' -- when you have been blown away by an unexpected dinner, it is hard to fall in love with another.

We will see if that holds true tonight.  We saved, for our last NYC night, the restaurant "Craft", Tom Colicchio's restaurant, if you follow the food channel shows like we do.  And it is our favorite restaurant in NYC; has been for many years.  It is a bit more casual, but plain food prepared exquisitely.  After such a spectacular musical, we felt it was the perfect choice!!

And tomorrow, late afternoon, we are off to Bermuda and our favorite beach in the world.  What will we do there??  What we always do:  jump the waves, sit under umbrellas with suntan lotion and hats, fall asleep in the lounge chairs, yawn, and read our kindles.  ROugh life!  But remember -- this is the trip to make up for the trip we had planned for last March that we had to cancel!  Bermuda beaches are better anyway!!!

Observations, Musings, and Just Plain Thoughts...

The Flagship Apple Store is in hiding.  Normally, one of the premier spots to visit in NYC is the all-glass Apple Store.  It is located next to the CBS square and is a shining block of glass, floor to ceiling, even the roof.  And the glass even goes down into the ground.  I guess, as in their stores in malls, too many people were "rushing" the store, so the powers that be covered the entire structure with white plywood.  However, it didn't look like the disguise worked -- people were STILL streaming in and out of the tiny doors!

(Actually, we "heard" Apple was planning on expanding their NY store -- surely hope it stays that gleaming clear glass, so people can find it again!)

Fire Alarms:  We were snugly tucked away in bed when, at precisely 4 a.m., the fire alarm started blaring.  FIrst thought:  it is a mistake.  Remember, we are on the 16th floor of the hotel.  And you can't use the elevators in a fire.  Me, no elevators.  That's a real hardship!  The alarm kept going.  The hotel engineer comes on the intercom.  "We are looking into it."  Third alarm keeps going.  "Guess we better get dressed."  So we grabbed our pills, the jewelry, my purse and the cell phone and out into the hall.  It looked foggy to me (but I think it might have been sleepies in my eyes) and I can tell you that, in a panic, you can't figure out where the stairs  are located from your room. If you travel, always check that out.  Or at least we think we will.  So -- as we start ogling the other guests in their night gear. a little man runs down the hall saying, "It's okay. It's okay.  Just a mistake."  Back into our night clothes. Turn off the lights.

Staring at the ceiling.  Eyes wide open. Me: "Didn't they say everything was okay at the World Trade Center? Right before it fell down?" Bos: "I don't think so."  Me: "I think you're wrong. I'm sure I remember that."  Eyes won't close.  Staring at the ceiling.  We never did find out what happened.  But I will think twice about an "upgrade" to the 16th floor!!

Plays:  "A Winter's Tale" by Shakespeare.  The first night we were here, we had dinner at Daniel and hoofed it over to the Park Avenue Armory.  The actors were from the Royal Shakespeare Company in London.  And they, literally, built a Globe theater INSIDE the Armory -- complete with balconies.  The area for "groundlings" did give a concession to modern times, by providing seating!  The production received a rave review from the NYTimes, but, after all, it is SHakespeare.  To prepare ourselves,  Bos and I got copies of the play and read all the parts before we came.  Still, while we understood the story, we weren't so sure we would "get" the language when it was spoken.  All it took, however, was a few speeches and we were enthralled.  Sitting-on-the-edge-of-our-seats enthralled.  Such a unique experience!
Next show: "War Horse".  We really didn't know this, but it was adapted from a teen book, it seems.  And it has been playing on the East End stage in London for over a year.  In NYC it is at the Vivian Beaumont Theatre in Lincoln Center (where, incidentally, I saw the building for Julliard School).  What a tear-jerker.  And all done with giant puppets.  Puppets the size of real horses, maneuvered by several men, and with all the real movements of horses -- shivering, eating grass, flicking flies with their tales.  And within a short time you forget they are puppets and start thinking of them as horses.  And, a short time after that, you forget they are horses and start thinking of them as people!!  I was foresightful enough to  bring kleenex.  You needed it!!
Next show will be "Book of Mormon".  That is tomorrow afternoon.

Celebrity Sightings:  At the hotel, Aretha Franklin surrounded by huge numbers of security people.  Yes, she has lost a lot of weight, but she still is a big lady -- and not just in voice!                
Viola Davis, who is starring in "The Help" as Aibeleen, for those of you who have read the book -- and who hasn't?  She is doing the rounds of tv shows to promote the movie.

Yum, But Then...

#1

11 Madison Park!

#2

 We had been looking forward to this!  It was named the # 1 Restaurant in NYC on "Opentable" with rave reviews from critics and customers alike!  Their executive chef, at the ripe old age of 33, has worked all over the world before settling, for the time being at least, at Danny Meyers' 11 Madison Park.  Danny Meyers, by the way, has deep roots in St. Louis, having spent his youth there with his family -- in the Central West End.  And, periodically, you can read in the St Louis gossip columns, Danny returns to his hometown to renew his Midwest side.  (Actually, while 11 Madison has become his flagship, he has a multitude of restaurants we like to visit, like Blue Smoke, Union Square Cafe, Shake Shack, Tabla, etc etc etc.  And he wrote a book a few years ago about how he became such a restauranteur when he couldn't cook!)

Anyway, we walked in the revolving door (the building itself had been an impressive bank at one time) and the greeter actually greeted

#3

 us by name.  Kinda puzzling.  But we have been to 11 Madison many times since we started our forays to NYC.  And it was NOT the premier restaurant at the beginning.  Danny Meyer restaurants are known for the friendly demeanor of their staff -- and that has not changed.  But the food was incredible.

We chose the 7 course tasting menu.  Each course was a little tidbit, just a taste.  But full of flavor. I knew, from the amuse bouche, we were in for a mind-boggling adventure.  To save time, we are including the menu they printed for us specially.  And, with the wine pairings, we were trying vintages from all over the world, from South Africa to Tasmania to France, of course!  But, I will emphasize, each course was 

only a morsel, just a taste, nothing more.

#4

  

               #5

And part way through the morsels, Manager Alexandra asked if we would like to see the kitchen.  What a silly question!  We were on our feet, walking there in a moment. We expected something described in "Kitchen Confidential" by Anthony Bourdain.  Something that might turn your stomach! But it was so clean, bright, open and busy. With probably 30 chefs, sous chefs, and cooks.  And each one had his specific job and title.  Eric, who brought us several courses, said he was just a "cook". The cook is the lowliest kitchen person, it seems. There are other "front of the house" people whose job it is to greet people and take them to the table.  Alexandra started as that before being promoted.  And Eric, the cook   would like to work his way up to the title of chef and then sous chef! And each one of those 30 or so men/women works on one course -- appetizer, salad, main course, dessert.  The sous chefs check each plate before it is sent out, to make sure it is a work of art.  And, as an example, one course had a glass tumbler filled with long "grass" and sticking out of the grass was a lollipop of the creamiest goat cheese enveloped by a beet covering -- looking just like chocolate with a center of ice cream!  Yum is too small a word for it!!  And, to continue the goat cheese theme, when we got our rolls, they brought us two types of butter -- cows milk butter and goat butter -- with a small dish of sea salt.  Know which we liked best?  Of course -- the goat butter!!

Chefs and All in the Kitchen

 The big mogul is, of course, the Executive Chef and he is really the "idea man", while the others take his ideas and implement them.  It isn't very often that he takes a spatula and pot and actually cooks. And, because he is so young and creative, NYC has embraced his cutting edge ideas with gusto!

In our kitchen visit, we had a little counter, covered with linen, and one of the cooks was mixing a molecular gastronomy drink for us.  Molecular gastronomy is using science, in this case liquid nitrogen, to create an "egg" that went in a fruity drink.  When we got the drink, we cracked open the"egg" and out floated some fruit to mix in.  We felt like we were on "Iron Chef" or something!!

All Clean and Bright in "Back of House" 

The evening was magical and Bos took pictures of the restaurant, the staff, each course, for you to ogle.  When we left, we were gifted with a mason jar of homemade granola for us to munch on.  And -- oh -- the gougeres!!  The first time we went to 11 Madison, probably 10 years ago, they made these little bitty cheese puffs, full of air and baked to perfection.  We loved them so much we asked for the recipe and they are so tricky to bake, we have never perfected them.  Well, this time the gougeres are BACK!  And they kept bringing them and bringing them, so we could pop them in our mouths to our hearts' content!

We have never ever been to a restaurant, anywhere in the world with world famous chefs, that was so "cutting edge" as this meal.  (No, we aren't going to tell you how much it cost.  But we will say it was worth it!)

So now we want to plan a dinner part with some of these incredible courses, IF we can figure it all out.  So wait for your invitation...  And thanks so much, everyone at 11 Madison Park!  Incredible.

Molecular Gastronomy!

Alexandria - Manager

Cow butter to left and
Goat butter to the right salt in front.

Us at the "Kitchen Table"!
#6

And More!

Finally, desert!