Of Knights, Castles, and Greeks…

Port and grandmasters castle

Port entrance where the Colossus
of Rhodes did NOT stand.

It looked like a dubious day once more, with rain pouring down and clouds threatening more of the same!  But, as we were docked today in Rhodes, Greece, we thought we would take a chance for a day of  Rhodes adventure.  Also, we had our very own private car and guide,…ending the day with a cooking class at a Greek restaurant.

Rhodes has a spotted history.  Off the coast of Turkey, it is a relatively big island.  And, for all those ancient mariners from Phoenicia, Rome, Africa, it had one thing that was most precious to everyone at the time.  Fresh water.  Many of the Greek islands do not have a source of water.  So it was unusually lucky that Rhodes had its own supply, especially since this part of the world can go many many months without rainfall.  Only in the fall (like our recent experience!) do they get enough rainfall to fill their deep cisterns!  So even today ships stop by Rhodes to take on water.

Beaches and hotels of the golden coast of tourism

Our energetic guide

So its spotty history was governed by various countries invading the island for its many gifts. The Greeks, of course, have lived there since its beginning several thousand BCE. The strategic location of the island was very tempting to many groups of invaders! Around 1100 CE the famed Crusaders, intent on retaking Jerusalem, invaded the area for about 400 years, building forts and castles throughout the Mediterranean, including Rhodes. But then came the Turks from the Ottoman Empire in 1522 and drove the Knights to Malta.      And the Turks defeated the Greeks throughout Greece, maintaining their domination for 400 years. The Greeks took it back in the 19th century. So our guide gave us detailed information on how the locals defending those castle-like forts were protected --- and how they were conquered!

  As an aside, the short skirts the Greek soldiers wear have 400 pleats, representing the 400 years.  And the poufballs on their shoes?  They are supposed to scare away those nasty Turks.  They didn’t seem to scare us, just amused us!  Still there is a lot of resentment on the part of the Greeks for the Turks and those 400 years!

Entrance of Castle

In any case, because the Turks were Muslim, they built mosques next to the Greek Orthodox churches throughout the island.  It was a dark period for the Rhodians as well as the other Greeks, one that is still remembered with enmity.  Many of the Rhodians were forced to move out of their homes, they lost their wealth and some even lost their lives if they would not convert to Islam. 

Once that was over, the Italians invaded in 1938, liked the mild climate and decided to stay.  The fortified castle from the times of the Crusaders, including the Grand Master’s

Rooms, had been torn down.  But, to this day, you can visit the impressive remains of the castle, see the moat, see the intricate paths and even ogle the steps built by the Italians in their restoration efforts!

Street of shops from long before to now

Battlement Archer slits

Courtyard of the Grand Master's plaace

Entrance to the Grand Master's Place

Truly odd Mosque

Our final hurrah on the island of Rhodes included a cooking lesson at a small restaurant.  The owner set up four burners, all the mise en place we would need, and we proceeded to make individual moussaka, tsaziki, meatballs with pasta, a Greek salad, and a dessert of chopped up fruit and doughnuts.  All in all, interesting.  Doing it again?? Not so much…

Our Host, his rrelative and Elaine at our cooking stations

Restaurant called the Drachma

Back to the ship by 3:30…and on to Cyprus tomorrow.  Then 3 days in Israel .  We are traveling with some good friends who are religious educators for the Presbyterian Church.  Maybe I’ll get a thorough education on the Holy Land from them!